At Bed-Stuys Fan-Fan Donuts it will be a summer full of ice cream sundaes. In addition to the eponymous delicacy of her shop, the owner and confectioner Fany Gerson is best known for the paletas and ice cream of her Mexican confectionery company La Newyorkina. At their downtown La Newyorkina store, which sadly closed in January amid the pandemic, Gerson used this ice cream to make sundaes that some say are the best in town. Now she brings her sundae skills to fan-fan.
Things start this weekend with a special option ($ 11) co-cooked with food writer Nicole A. Taylor. The two met when Gerson opened her first Dough donut store in 2010, and while fried dough was the entry point, they later connected through cultural ties when they both joined one of Dr. Jessica B organized a symposium. Harris. “Since Fany was born in Mexico, and I was born in the American South, more precisely in Athens, Georgia, there were many cultural things related to food and just being and living that we had in common,” says Taylor.
“We always just thought We have to find a way to work together. Because there are so many parallels and crossings between different cultures, ”adds Gerson. When she was making plans for sundae summer, she called Taylor. Why not make an ice cream sundae together?
Donut croutons floating in a sea of ice.
Photo: Melissa Hom
Eventually, the duo landed on a strawberry sumac cake recipe from Taylor’s upcoming cookbook. Watermelon and red birds. The book builds on Taylor’s work on the food and celebrations on June 19, the June 19 holiday commemorated when black Texans learned they had been freed from slavery two and a half years after the Emancipation Proclamation. (On Tuesday, the Senate passed bill recognizing Juniteenth as a federal holiday. In recent years and since the George Floyd protests, this has attracted increased attention, sparking discussions about owning and co-opting the holiday, as well as failing to pass it from laws to systemic problems. One of Juneteenth’s biggest proponents, notes Taylor, is Opal Lee, the 94-year-old who, like Dr Vacation.)
Fan fans will find Taylor’s strawberry sumac in the form of a compote instead of a cake, along with donut tres leches ice cream, pistachio brittle, whipped cream and lime zest. The compote is a nod to Juneteenth by Taylor, which celebrates the holiday annually. What’s more, it’s something that combines two of her and Gerson’s favorite foods: strawberries or tres leches. “I picked strawberries outside of Atlanta. I picked strawberries on Long Island. I picked strawberries here in Athens, ”says Taylor. “It’s a thing for me.”
Along with this particular sundae, Gerson offers a kind of sundae so you can build your own. The store has four flavors of La Newyorkina ice cream (these are Donut Tres Leches, Horchata, Chocolate Nutella, and Strawberries and Cream), which you can combine with four sauces (hot fudge, brown butter caramel, fruit jam or compote, and yuzu Quark) and four toppings with whipped cream, brownie pieces and – what is that? – Donut croutons? Gerson says the final piece is here for the summer only, so go quick … and try to convince her to offer it year round.